There’s nothing Wisconsin loves more than cheese. And not just any cheese, Wisconsin cheese. Year after year, countless Packer fans have sat down to watch the game with a hearty Pabst Blue Ribbon and a waxed wheel of Wisconsin sharp cheddar. Maybe not exactly like that. But the point is, for many, cheese is a part of Wisconsin like beer drinking and Lake Michigan. That’s why news that California would surpass Wisconsin in cheese production struck a sour note in America’s Dairyland.

Wisconsin has been the leader of cheese production for 96 years, a history it’s proud of. Apparently the cheesemaking began in earnest during the mid-19th century. The wheat crop wasn’t doing too well, so farmers switched to cows. This transition dovetailed with the boom in German and Swiss immigrants, and thus, cheesemaking preeminence was born.

It wasn’t only cheese though. For the longest time, Wisconsin stood mightily on the proverbial Timms Hill of dairy as well. That is, until California started its unwelcome climb. California eclipsed Wisconsin in milk production a decade ago, and, to make matters worse, the state later insinuated in a national ad campaign that cows were unhappy in cold climates. How does Wisconsin deal with the latest assault?

The prevailing argument in Wisconsin is that Wisconsin cheese has character, a character that derives from the state’s people. It comes from donning foam cheese hats at football games and pointing at one’s hand when someone asks “Where, geographically, are you from?” It also comes from drinking hearty Pabst Blue Ribbon and gnawing on sharp cheddar all the time. But most importantly, it comes from specializing in cheese for nearly a century and making it your identity. Sure, neighboring states poke fun at that sometimes, but it’s what makes Wisconsin lovable and unique.

We agree. So, collectively, we’d like to join Wisconsin in saying “Nice try, California.” Have fun with your characterless cheese, haughty vineyards, Hollywood starlets and celebrity governor. Wisconsin cheese and Wisconsin wine go together quite nicely.